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View the instruction books for all of our patina finishing products online! Step by step instructions and tips to successful application included.

Instructions: Metal Cleaning, Primers, Texture Paints, and Metal Coatings A, B, & C, Universal, Vista, & Dye Oxide Patinas, Birchwood Casey, Solvent Dyes, Protective Clear Sealers, and Wax.

Patina Instructions: What is a patina? Instructions for patina use.

Sculpt Nouveau Patinas: Having trouble deciding which patina is right for you?
This will help you find some answers.

Sculpt Nouveau Instruction Book For Finishing Products

Important Disclaimer : Be very careful when using these products. Keep out of the reach of children.


METAL SURFACE CLEANING


The surface of the material you are working on should be clean and free of any dirt or grease. When working with Iron, Steel, or Aluminum you may want to remove rust and fire scale. When applying the Solvent Dyes or Metal Coatings to Resins, Epoxies, Glass, or any very high polished surface you may need to not only clean the surface but slightly abrade it also

The best method of cleaning most materials is to sandblast. Different types of blasting material may be used in order to keep the surface, as you want it. Wire wheels, Scotch Brite Pads or 3M abrasives are another method of cleaning. Be careful not to leave any polishing compound on the surface.
A good metal cleaner is a great way to get the surface ready to work on. Sometimes mild acids are used but often they can interfere with the patina process to come later. Rennaisance developed two great metal cleaners; they work on both ferrous and non- ferrous metals.


For use on Bronze, Brass, and Copper

1. Apply the cleaner with a brush, sponge, or rag.
2. Let stand on the metal for approximately 5 minutes.
3. Rub with a red or green "Scotch Brite"
4. Rinse with water.
5. Repeat if necessary.
6. Dry the surface.
7. Apply the desired finish to the metal surface.

For use on Iron, Steel, and Aluminum

1. Use as above, except do not rinse with water - remove the cleaner with a clean cloth.
2. Apply your desired finish immediately to the clean metal.


PRIMERS

A primer will only be needed if you are applying the Metal Coating. The only real critical instance for needing a primer is when the substrate is Iron, Steel, or Aluminum. When working with a ceramic type of material, the primer is used only to keep the first coat of Metal Coating from being absorbed. If you just want to apply a patina to solid metal skip ahead to the patina section on pages 9 & 10.

Made By: Sculpt Nouveau - Water Based Primer for Ceramic, Wood, Plaster…

This primer is used to prepare porous material before applying the Metal Coating. Make sure the surface of your material is clean. If the surface of the material is not porous, you do not need to use this or any primer. The only reason for using this primer is to stop the substrate from absorbing the first coat of Metal Coating. It will not do any harm to apply the primer if you are unsure of the porosity. This primer is NOT good enough to use as a primer for iron, steel, or aluminum. Apply the primer with a brush, sponge, or airbrush.
When these types of materials are going to be placed outside be sure to seal all sides (bottom and insides also) so moisture will not be able to enter. A commercial concrete sealer would be advisable for material that is going to be lying directly on the ground.


Made By: Diamond Vogel - One part water base primer for ferrous metals # MC-1501

This primer is used to prepare Iron, Steel, or Aluminum before applying the Metal Coating and an acid patina. Make sure the surface of the metal is clean. If possible, sandblasting is the recommended way to clean the metal surface. Try to apply the primer as soon as possible after cleaning. Oxidation (rust) begins forming on these metals very quickly, even though you can't see it.
Apply the primer with a brush, airbrush, or sponge depending on the surface texture you desire. Thin with water if necessary. Apply at least two coats, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next. Be sure to cover all the surfaces and cracks (including the bottom). If you are working with a flat surface don't forget the edges and back. This primer is water based; clean up with soap and water. For more texture use the texture paint over the primer.
Allow the primer to cure completely, at least over night. Cold weather lengthens the curing time. The metal coating may be applied afterward.
This is a water based acrylic primer. Thin with water. Clean up with soap and water. It is available in quarts, gallon, and 5 gallons.

Applying a primer is not necessary on most materials with the very important exception of GALVANIZED METAL, FERROUS METAL, and OR ALUMINUM. With these materials, first apply a strong, well-tested primer like Pro Line or Diamond Vogel (see primer information on pages 3 & 4.) The purpose of a primer for these materials is two fold. First, the primer separates the Metal Coating, which is non-ferrous, from the ferrous metal, eliminating any possible galvanic reaction. And secondly, the primer will keep any chemical acids used as patinas from reaching the metal and causing oxidation. If you know for certain that an acid patina will not be applied over the Metal Coating, the primer type may be reduced to that of just a zinc oxide spray (Rustolium.)
A light primer for porous materials like ceramic or plaster is recommended to keep the first layer of Metal Coating from being absorbed. If the Metal Coating is going to be applied to a porous material that will be exposed to water, like a concrete floor or an outdoor sculpture, we suggest a more aggressive primer, such as a concrete sealer, be applied first. If moisture is allowed to enter the material it can force the Metal Coating off the surface.


Made By: Pro-Line - Two part epoxy primer for ferrous metals #4018

This primer is used to prepare Iron, Steel, or Aluminum before applying the Metal Coating. Clean the metal surface. Try to apply the primer as soon as possible after cleaning. Oxidation (rust) begins forming on these metals very quickly, even though you can't see it.
# 4018 primer comes in two parts, which mix equally. It may be applied with a brush, air gun, or sponge, depending on the surface texture you want or the condition you will be working with. The Pro-Line does have a little thickness to it but if you want more texture use the texture paint over it.
It is very important to allow the primer to cure completely. Let it dry for at least 12 hours. Remember to cover all the surfaces and cracks (including the bottom.) If you are working with a flat surface don't forget the edges and back. After the primer has dried, apply the metal coating within 48 hours. It seems that the Metal Coating will not adhere to the primer if it sets longer than this. Very Important


TEXTURE PAINT

Made By: Sculpt Nouveau

The sculpture paint is an incredible way to obtain texture on your material before applying the liquid metal coating. It is water base and easy to manipulate with any tool you find, much like clay. We recommend this product for indoor work only.
The texture paint seems to bond to any surface so whatever material you are working on, you will be able to add texture to it. As always though, if you are working on ferrous metals you must first apply an additional primer. (The two-part epoxy from Pro-Line would be best. The texture paint is very flexible; it may be used on pliable surfaces such as canvas to create unusual textures.
Always allow each product to dry completely before applying the next. This product is not recommended for outdoor use.
* Soon we will have a very strong gesso type product that will be a completely water proof outdoor, carvable, material to replace the texture paint.


METAL COATINGS

Made By Sculpt Nouveau

Sculpt Nouveau makes three different formulas of "Metal Coatings"- A, B, & C. All of the Metal Coating formulas are made of water based, acrylic, strong, long lasting, outdoor binder with real metal powders suspended in it. Different metal powders are used to create different metal coatings - Bronze, Brass, Copper, Iron, Pewter, and Mauve. Mauve is a blend of Copper and Pewter.
The reason for using the Metal Coatings would to be to make something that was not made of metal look as if it were made of metal. For example, a ceramic or plaster object would appear to be made of bronze if the Metal Coating was applied on it. Another application would be to change one metal into a different metal. For example, applying the copper Metal Coating over steel. Now the steel would appear to be copper. Another popular use is to apply the iron coating over iron or steel. This allows you to completely rust the surface Metal Coating without compromising the base metal and since the coating is an outdoor product there will be no further disintegration even outdoors.
The main differences between the three Metal Coatings:
A - Self seals as it dries. Patinas and colors need to be applied while the coating is still wet
B - Dose not self-seal. The metal powders remain on the surface allowing patinas and colors to be applied after it has dried. It may be burnished back with 0000 Steel Wool.
C - Does not self-seal. Patinas should be applied while it is slightly wet. Still a water base formula, but cures with a mild catalyst. It is very hard when cured and may be polished with a polishing wheel.

All of the Metal Coating formulas adhere very well to most surfaces, with the exception of a high polish or mirror smooth surface. Test the coating I
a small area on the material. Let it dry for at least 12 hours then check for adhesion. If your surface is not accepting the coating, use some type of abrasion technique - sand blasting, wire brush, sanding, etc. - then try the coating again.

Applying a primer is not necessary on most materials with the very important exception of GALVANIZED METAL, FERROUS METAL, and OR ALUMINUM. With these materials, first apply a strong, well-tested primer like Pro Line or Diamond Vogel (see primer information on pages 3 & 4.) The purpose of a primer for these materials is two fold. First, the primer separates the Metal Coating, which is non-ferrous, from the ferrous metal, eliminating any possible galvanic reaction. And secondly, the primer will keep any chemical acids used as patinas from reaching the metal and causing oxidation. If you know for certain that an acid patina will not be applied over the Metal Coating, the primer type may be reduced to that of just a zinc oxide spray (Rustolium.)
A light primer for porous materials like ceramic or plaster is recommended to keep the first layer of Metal Coating from being absorbed. If the Metal Coating is going to be applied to a porous material that will be exposed to water, like a concrete floor or an outdoor sculpture, we suggest a more aggressive primer, such as a concrete sealer, be applied first. If moisture is allowed to enter the material it can force the Metal Coating off the surface.
The Metal Coatings may be applied by any technique - air sprayer, sponge, brush, etc. Be sure to stir or mix well. Always apply at least two coats allowing some drying time in-between. The drying time will vary depending on the weather. If an air gun type sprayer is used the coating should be put through a filter.


METAL COATING "B"

Made By: Sculpt Nouveau - Liquid Metal Coating "B"

The Metal Coating "B" is applied in the same manner as the "A" Coating with the following exceptions:
1. A patina may be applied to the " B" coating when it is wet (as with the "A") OR dry. The advantage to applying the patina to a dry surface is that you have more working time. This becomes important when you are trying to cover a large area or are outdoors in low humidity/high temperatures. Having a dry surface also allows for more exotic patinas such as fumed, buried, wrapped, or paste.
2.The reason a patina may be applied to the dried Metal Coating "B" is because the metal powders remain on the surface. This coating does not self-seal as "A" does. After you have achieved your patina, a clear protective sealer is a good idea. As with a piece of metal, this will protect and prevent unwanted changes.
Characteristics of the "B" Metal Coating:
1. The patina seems to react better if you do not wait too long to apply after the metal coating has dried. We suggest not waiting more than two days. One to six hours is best. When applying the patina after the Metal Coating has dried, buff slightly with steel wool, this will help the patina reaction.
2. The patinas will have a slightly different color depending on if they were applied to the Metal Coating when it was wet or if it was dry.
3. When applying a buried patina to the "B" coating, we have found it best not to have the substance you are using too saturated with patina and do not make the solution very strong. The length of time in the buried container will be much shorter than with solid metal. Check your piece often; the total time will probably not exceed 6 hours. The copper and brass Metal Coatings seem to work best with the buried technique.
4.The "B" Coating may be burnished back with very fine steel wool after it has dried. Be sure to apply at least two layers of Metal Coating - more if you intend to do be burnishing. The best effects are achieved by burnishing 2 to 3 hours after applying the patina. Apply a clear protective coating immediately to preserve the "exposed metal" look.
As with the other Metal Coating formulas, another layer of Metal Coating may always be applied. This is possible even if you have already applied a patina and protective sealer. In fact, by layering many coats you can achieve some very interesting finishes. The finishes may always be altered.

METAL COATING "C"

Metal Coating C is a three-part product: Body, Hardener, and Catalyst
Two layers of the Metal Coating are recommended for best results. Metal Coating B may be used under the C to build up a thick metal layer and to cut costs. See backside for sprayer information.

Mixing the Metal Coating C

1. Mix the Body well before adding the other ingredients or pouring any off into a smaller container.
The best way to mix is with a mixing blade that attaches to a drill. This will greatly enhance the Metal Coating.
2. Add the Hardener to the Body and stir well. Shaking is a good way to mix if possible. Stir or shake for at least 30 seconds
3. Add the Catalyst - stir briskly while adding - and continue to mix for about a minute.
4. The Metal Coating C is now ready to be applied to the surface of an object. The Coating will stay liquid for 5 to 6 hours. Thickening will take place in about 1 to 8 hours, depending on the temperature of the room you are working in.
5. Application may be by brush, sponge, roller, or spray gun.
6. Keep the mixture in suspension while you are working with it by stirring or shaking every few minutes.
7. The coating will need to be strained before spraying. . Spraying is the best way to apply the coating. Although it may be brushed or sponged on.

Techniques to Dry the Metal Coating C

Before using any of the below drying techniques, let the Metal Coating sit for 5 to 10 minutes or bubbles will occur

1. Using the heat from the sun is the preferred technique.
2. Apply the coating, and then heat the surface with a hair dryer.
3. The coating may dry on it's own.
4. The coating may be cured in an oven or kiln at very low temperatures. (150° F)

Application
1. When finished with each layer of Metal Coating C you may mist on household White Vinegar -applying vinegar is an option. Wait five minutes to let the coating settle before spraying with the vinegar. This helps harden the Metal Coating.
2. Do not apply heat or take the piece into the sun for 5 to 10 minutes after applying the vinegar or bubbles will occur.
3. Apply two to three coats of the Metal Coating (three if the surface is very irregular) letting the coating harden somewhat between applications
You should use the Metal Coating B as the first two base coats. This will save money, as it is a less expensive product. The layers may be applied quickly one after the other by drying each with heat. The whole process should be able to be completed in a day.

Applying a Patina to the Metal Coating C
This will be applied to the final layer of Metal Coating
1. A patina may be sprayed on while the Metal Coating is drying or after it has dried. The patina will be more vibrant if the Metal Coating is wet.
2. A patina containing acid such as Sculpt Nouveau's Light Green, Tiffany, Blue, or any of the Vista Series will help harden the coating if it is sprayed on while the Coating is drying. They will also darken the Metal Coating in addition to the patina color polishing the Metal Coating C1. When the last or second layer of Metal Coating has cured for at least 1 hour you may burnish the surface with 00 to 0000 steel, bronze, or copper wool, or a fine Scotch Brite . If there are sharp edges or textures, be careful when polishing.

Polishing the Metal Coating
1. The cured surface may also be polished with a felt wheel (no stitching) and a buffing compound. Do not exceed 1200 RPM's. (600 to 1200 RPM is best)
2. A Sander Block may be used on a flat surface - 220 grit
3. For aggressive polishing n a rough surface or one with sharp edges - use "Type B" Metal Coating for the first two coats- let dry between coats (or dry quickly with heat) then apply two coats of "Type C". Heat the high points with a hair dryer to harden the metal coating more before polishing.


We have found a great, simple, inexpensive spray gun to apply the Metal Coatings.
The Spray gun comes packaged with one nozzle, which is too big for the Metal Coating.
Be sure to order an extra smaller nozzle, a #3, # 4, or #5.

PATINAS

Made By: Sculpt Nouveau

The patinas made by Sculpt Nouveau are all ready to use. The patinas are formulated so that they may all be used in a cold technique, although the patinas with an * by their name may be used hot also - with one exception, the Mint Green, it has an * but may be applied hot or cold.
The * is also an indicator to show the patina does not contain an acid. This is important information if the material the patina is going on is Iron, Steel, or Aluminum because acids cause oxidation on these metals. Sometimes rust or oxidation is the desired finish, but it is best to have oxidation occur because you wanted it.
Our patinas change the color of the metal surface, they do not seal or protect from the environment. After the finish is complete we suggest a clear protective coating be applied, especially for Iron, Steel, and Aluminum.
With the exception of the acid green and blue patinas, all of our patinas are products that are different than traditional patinas. We also offer books, videos, and seminars in traditional patina formulation and application. Our patinas are meant to make applying a finish easier, more controllable, and if desired, more colorful. They may be used alone or in combination with other traditional formulas. For example, a base patina of Liver of Sulfur or Birchwood Casey could first be applied to darken the surface before one of Sculpt Nouveau's patinas is applied over it.
Before applying any patina to metal, the surface will need to be clean. If you have problems with adhesion it will more than likely be from oil or dirt on the surface. See page 2 for Metal Cleaning.
If you are working on anything other than metal you will need to apply the Metal Coating before the patina. When applying patinas to the metal coating only use the cold technique.

Acid Green & Blue Patinas:
These patinas are a cold application only. Cold acid patinas tend to cause a chalky substance on the surface; this is the nature of these patinas. When the formula is first applied the metal will lighten or turn pinkish. It is best to let the patina react out of direct sunlight in a moderate temperature. Apply the patina lightly with a sprayer (all plastic), sponge, or brush then wait for 2 to 3 hours to see the reaction. Reapply if needed to increase the patina color. Be patient. Try not to "puddle" the Light Green formula as it may pop off later.
These patinas will become very strong and part of the metal surface with time. If the material is going outdoors, we suggest applying a clear protective sealer to help while the patina sets. The clear sealer will take some of the patina color away at first but it will come back in time. For indoor work, a Matt Fix is all that is needed.
On Bronze, Brass, and Copper the patina will create the color indicated. On Iron, Steel, and Aluminum rust will occur.


Universal Patinas:
These patinas will become very strong and part of the metal surface with time. If the material is going outdoors, we suggest applying a clear protective sealer to help while the patina sets. The clear sealer will take some of the patina color away at first but it will come back in time. For indoor work, a Matt Fix is all that is needed.
Sculpt Nouveau's Universal Patinas come in a wide range of colors. They do not contain acids; they are UV safe, indoor, or outdoor oxides. These patinas may be applied hot or cold to any metal including Iron and Steel. If you do not use a torch to apply the patina (hot technique) it is good to heat the metal slightly in the sun or with a heat gun.
The Universal Patinas bind on to the metal surface, they do not react. The color of these patinas will remain the same; they will not change as with an acid patina. The metal surface needs to be clean before application. As with all of our products these patinas may be used together with any of the other patinas and dye oxides. We find if using this patina directly to clean metal it is best to heat the surface - as in the hot patina technique.


Vista Patinas:
The Vista Patina Series are patinas that contain acids as well as oxides. This patina was first designed to give a constant green patina color. So many times with an acid patina the color will vary depending on the weather or so many other variables. The consistent color of the oxide is pulled into the acid reaction and a predictable patina is formed. After developing the Vista Green it was inevitable to create a rainbow of other colors following the same concept
We use a strong green acid base and add patina oxides to it. The result on Bronze, Brass, and Copper is a two part, marbleized effect of a green patina plus the Vista Color. When used on Iron or Steel the green acid base will cause beautiful rust plus the Vista Color.
These are cold patinas only; (except for the Vista Green, it may be used hot as well) clean the metal surface before applying. The Vista Patinas may be applied in any manner: spray, sponge, or brush. Allow two to three hours to fully react. As with all cold acid patinas, try to apply out of direct sunlight and in moderate temperatures. The reaction may not take place because the patina dried too fast.


Traditional Blue & Green Patinas for Bronze, Brass, & Copper:
* Always allow these patinas days to fully develop before applying a clear sealer.

Cupric Nitrate - Hot patina for Bronze, Brass, & Copper

Clean the metal first as with any other patina. This patina is a hot patina only.
Spray or brush on the Cupric Nitrate. Rinsing the patina is optional. Rinsing will "smooth" out the patina. This patina looks great directly on the metal, as well as over a base brown patina such as liver of sulfur, Birchwood Casey M-20 or M-24, or Ferric Nitrate. If used on iron or steel rust will occur. It is helpful to spray or brush with acetone before applying the clear sealer - this will dry out the patina. Applying wax directly to the patina will darken it significantly.
Try spraying with the sealer first then waxing. Indoor or outdoor patina. Don't use on aluminum
*Note this patina may cause 'Red Bronze Disease' if it is put on silicon bronze outdoors. To help eliminate this, add a pinch of zinc dust to the patina.

Powder Blue Patina - Cold Patina for Bronze, Brass, or Copper

This is a stable blue for outdoor work.
Clean the metal first as with any other patina. Spray, brush, or sponge on the patina. Let the reaction work for 2 - 6 hours
Reapply if a deeper color is desired. No rinsing is necessary. This patina may also be used on our Metal Coating - of course no rinsing on the metal coating.
If used on iron or steel, it will cause rust.
Indoor or outdoor patina. Don't use on aluminum. Set with a clear sealer when done. It is helpful to spray or brush with acetone before applying the sealer- this will dry out the patina.

More Cold Patinas for Bronze, Brass, or Copper:
Blue - Use in the same manner as the Powder Blue. This is a very old formula; it is not stable outside, use the Powder Blue for those applications.
Tiffany Green - Use in the same manner as the Powder Blue. This is a beautiful stable green. If it is overlapped or applied heavily the color will tend to go a little blue. Tiffany Green tends to be slow to react, but worth the wait. Let it sit over night to see the results, then reapply if necessary.
Light Green - Use in the same manner as the Powder Blue. This is a beautiful stable green outside. It may tend to 'pop off if applied too heavily. Mist on lightly and let it react, then reapply if necessary to deepen the color. This patina tends to have some yellows in it. This patina reacts quickly.
Mint Green - This is a great hardworking patina. It is an exception in that it may be used hot or cold. No chance o f red bronze disease with this one, it is a good substitute for Cupric Nitrate - Statue of Liberty color.


Transparent, Traditional Brown Patinas for Bronze, Brass, & Copper:

1. Liver of Sulfur for Bronze, Brass, & Copper

Liver of sulfur is a very old base patina. It even works well for large outside bronzes, because it is relatively easy to apply and provides an attractive and relatively warm brown. You must mix this solution fresh each time you patina, it will keep only one or two days once mixed in water. The chemical in the bottle does not keep well either. Store in a cool dry area.
Liver of sulfur 1 teaspoon
Water (warm) 1 pint
Liver of sulfur must be washed thoroughly before any other patinas are applied.
Cold Technique: Using a brush, bottles, or sponge, evenly cover the surface of the bronze. Let the bronze set for 5 minutes; then wash the bronze in cold water to neutralize the liver of sulfur. You may wish to use steel wool or a 3M pad to highlight the sculpture. For a darker color, use additional liver of sulfur.
Hot Technique: Heat the metal with a torch until it is hot to the touch; then apply the sulfur solution sparingly with a brush, using circular or stippling motions and working across the surface until the desired color is established. The patina will turn dark very fast when the metal is hot, so if you require a light brown, use less liver of sulfur in the water solution. You may need to burnish the surface with steel wool or scotch brite to even the patina.
This patina seems to darken over time. There is no way to stop the change in color. You may wish to use one of the other browns.

2. Mahogany Patina For Bronze, Brass, and Copper

This is a beautiful brown patina you may wish to use instead of Liver. On a polished surface a beautiful transparent brown patina can form with swirls of color. On a non-polished surface a nice brown will occur. For cold Technique: Shake or mix the patina well and apply evenly to the metal surface with a brush. Let the patina sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Repeat if necessary to darken the color. Rinsing is optional, do not rinse if you are using the Mahogany as a base coat, leaving it on make the next patina more intense, especially the cold greens. By not rinsing, the patina will darken in time like a liver of sulfur patina.
If used in a hot technique iridescent will form.
After the patina has dried you may wax or apply a lacquer

3. Ferric Nitrate/Ferric Chloride

Cold patina for Bronze, Brass, or Copper, or the Metal Coatings
If used on iron or steel it will make a rust/brown. (Real rust)

Clean the metal first as with any other patina.
Apply with a brush, spray bottle or sponge If put on full strength it will make a dark brown. If diluted by 50 % distilled water it will make rust/brown.
On real metal only - If you rinse it with warm water it will make rust-brown.
This patina may be used on our coating for rust/brown -
Of course no rinsing on the metal coating.
Indoor or outdoor patina. Don't use on aluminum

4. Ferric Nitrate

Hot Patina for Bronze, Brass, & Copper

Clean the metal first as with any other patina. If put on full strength it will make a dark brown. If diluted by 50 % distilled water it will make a rust/brown.
On real metal only - If you rinse it with warm water it will make rust-brown.
This patina may be used on our coating for a rust brown -
Of course no rinsing on the metal coating.
If used on iron or steel it will make a rust/brown. (Real rust)
Indoor or outdoor patina. Don't use on aluminum

5. Japanese Brown -
Hot or Cold Patina for Iron and Steel

This is a remarkable discovery for Sculpt Nouveau. Japanese Brown is a real chemical reaction on the metal surface.
Clean the metal surface before application.
If the metal is smooth it will be a shinier patina, if the metal surface is sandblasted it will look more satin. Rust will occur if a clear sealer is not applied quickly after drying. The patina may be applied in a Hot or Cold technique. Heat will darken the color as well as make it modeled. No need to rinse. For indoor or outdoor use. Don't use on aluminum.

6. Golden Bronze Patina
Hot or Cold Patina for Iron and Steel
Apply as directed for the Japanese Brown. A lighter, more golden color than the Japanese Brown will result.


BIRCHWOOD CASEY Patina

Birchwood Casey is a chemical solution that we have found works well as a way to darken the patina, metal, or Metal Coating color. It is somewhat like a liver of sulfur or ammonium sulfide patina. The formula is old - you may know of it as "gun bluing". Basically it turns the metal darker or "aged". Birchwood Casey makes different formulas for the different metals. For copper, Bronze, and Brass there are choices of Brown or Black, brush on or dip. There are separate formulas for Iron, Steel, & Aluminum. The patina solution comes concentrated and then diluted 3 parts of distilled water to one part Birchwood Casey. The samples from sculpt Nouveau have been diluted for you. Using the solution too strong will cause many problems.
Birchwood Casey products may be used directly on the Metal Coatings as a patina or apply it over a patina. When you are working with the Metal Coating you will need to follow the same instructions you would for applying a patina. For example, the Metal Coating "A" the Birchwood Casey would be applied over the wet Metal Coating or wet Metal Coating with patinas. When using the "B" or "C" Metal Coatings you may apply the Birchwood Casey when the Coatings are wet or dry.
In some cases you may see some white areas form along with the darker areas on the Metal Coating. The reaction will be different with each Metal Coating type, metal type, or over each patina. Reds may become more red, greens more blue-green, etc.
This product may be the only patina used or it could be a base for more layers of patina colors.


WATER BASE DYE-OXIDES

Made By: Sculpt Nouveau

The Water Based Dye-Oxide Patinas are very versatile. They are a cross between the Solvent Base Dyes and a patina. All of the colors are transparent and may be blended or layered together to achieve the color you want. They do not contain acids.
The Dye Oxides may be applied directly onto any metal including Iron, Steel, or Aluminum. They may be used in a hot or cold technique. We recommend using them in the hot technique when applying directly on a metal surface. The Dye Oxides may be applied over any other patina solution while it is wet or dry to alter the color. They are so compatible with patinas that the Dye Oxides could be added into another patina formula. For example: if your green acid patina was not green enough for you - the green Dye Oxide could be added into your formula thus changing the color.
These, as with all our patinas and colors, work very well over the metal coatings also. Use with the cold technique.
When working with Iron, Steel, or Aluminum the water base Dye Oxides look great when applied in or over the Birchwood Casey "darkener" (Presto Black.) The Dye Oxides do not cause rust so they may be used hot or cold on these metals. A clear sealer is needed when the patina is finished and dry to protect from oxidation. It is possible to clear powder coat over the Dye Oxides.
Apply the Water Base Dye Oxides in any manner to achieve the look you desire; spray, sponge, brush, etc. The iridescent Powder may be added also. The colors may be thinned with distilled water in order to lighten the color.
All Dye Oxide colors are UV safe and may be used indoors or outdoors.


SOLVENT DYES

Made By: Sculpt Nouveau

These Solvent Dyes were designed as a tool to enable you to apply a difficult color (violet, red…), to apply color to a difficult material (steel, glass, resin….), to change or enhance an existing color, or to repair a damaged finish.
The dyes are to be blended with each other to create the colors you want. There is no color or shade that cannot be made with these dyes. All the primary and secondary colors are transparent. The white color is opaque. Adding white to the transparent colors will make opaque colors and pastels.
The colors are very concentrated. Dilute the Dyes with the Dye Thinner to obtain the desired transparency. We suggest that the Dye Thinner not be used more than 30% by volume to the Dye. To make a very faint, or extremely transparent color, add the Dye to a solvent lacquer (like Permalac or Clear Guard) and apply.
The Solvent Dyes may be used directly on any material, including glass. The surface may need to be slightly roughed if it is too smooth, to help the dye bind. The dyes may be applied directly on galvanize metal, non-ferrous metal, ferrous metal, and aluminum without corrosion occurring. The dyes will duplicate any chemical patina color directly on the metal surface, or create a new look. The dyes look great over any leaf product or non-reactive metal like gold or silver. Drop the Dyes into resins, epoxies, or wax, and mix to tint the color.
The Dye may be applied over the dry Metal Coating and may also be applied over a patinaed surface. This makes altering a patina- gone-wrong very easy. You may slightly change the color by adding some Dyes to the final Clear Protective Sealer.
The Dyes may be applied in any manner. Each different application technique will change the way the Dyes appear. Sponging will give texture as with a cold patina. An airbrush will create an even coloring as with a hot patina. The Dyes are very easy to manipulate.
A protective clear sealer is necessary after the Dye has dried, unless the sealer was the majority of the mix applied. Always spray on the final protective clear sealer or there is a risk of disturbing the Dye finish. The Dyes may be re-worked after they have dried by applying more Dye over them. More Dye may be layered over the protective sealer also. * Be sure to reapply another layer of protective sealer when finished.
Protect your hands and work area. Wear a breather mask and work in a well-ventilated area. Clean up tools and such with denatured alcohol.
Please refer to the Dye Instruction Book for more information.


SOLVENT DYE THINNER

Made By: Sculpt Nouveau

The Dye Thinner is used to dilute or thin the dyes, as the Solvent Dyes are very concentrated. By adding the Dye Thinner to the Dyes, the color will be more transparent. Do not substitute with another thinner. Sculpt Nouveau Dye Thinner has UV inhibitors, corrosive inhibitors for all metals, and binders that will help maintain the integrity of the dyes. The Dye Thinner "spreads" the dye when applied to the surface of your material that has dye on it, like nothing else will.

If you want to apply only a very slight transparent color or shading we suggest that you add the Solvent Dye to a good clear coating that has UV inhibitors and binders - like Incralac or Nikolas brands, instead of using the Dye Thinner.

* Do not dilute the Solvent Dyes with more than 30% of the Dye Thinner by volume. This is to reduce the chance of fading. Use the lacquer as if it were a thinner to achieve a light transparent color.


Protective CLEAR SEALERS

A protective Clear Sealer would be used to protect material from the environment or to set a finish. Iron, Steel and Aluminum need a protective coating to keep from oxidizing or rusting. A polished surface on Bronze, Brass, or Copper will tarnish without protection. After achieving a patina or color on you material, the protective coating will help it last longer and help to keep it from changing. We suggest applying a clear coating in almost every instance. The best way to apply any brand of clear sealer is to spray it on. Spraying reduces bubbles and ridges formed by the brush, which help to break down the product faster. Small propellant applicators are available, made by Badger or Crown, if you do not have a compressor. Two or three light coats are preferable to one heavy coating. Letting each dry before applying the next.
No protective sealer will last forever. A regular maintenance program is needed and should be scheduled according to the individual conditions. Wax may be applied over the clear sealer to add even more protection.


Made By: Stan Chem - Incralac

This protective Clear Sealer contains UV inhibitors as will as binders. Use the Incralac Clear Sealer over you finished work. Incralac does not darken a polished surface. It is a strong, thin, fast drying solvent lacquer that doesn't yellow or peel. This lacquer seems to go into the finish and bind onto the material - which is great if you have a very thick powdery patina, or rusted surface. For extremely thick finishes, you may find it advisable to thin the lacquer with it's corresponding thinner. It is possible to apply Incralac over most anything, even wax, although this will slow the drying time.
We have found that Incralac Lacquer works very well with the Solvent Dyes. By adding a small amount of Solvent Dye to the Incralac Lacquer, you will be able to apply a very transparent color. The iridescent powder goes into the lacquer as well. Apply the Clear Sealer with dyes, Powders, or both, directly on your material, over the Metal Coating, or over patinas. Repeating layers of colors may create an interesting finish.
A matting agent is available for this lacquer from Incralac. Or, it is available already matted. Waxing over the lacquer will matt the surface some also. Or, spray lightly with a matte fix available in art stores.
Use in a well-ventilated area and wear a breather mask.


WAX

Cold Patinas:
Wax should only be used on a cold patina after you have applied at least two coats of either a solvent or Water Based Clear coating. Allow each layer of Clear coat to dry fully. Apply the wax to the surface with a brush, allow to dry 2 to 3 hours then buff with a terry cloth type rag.
For Bronze, Brass, Copper, or the Metal Coatings with a crusty patina you may choose not to use a Clear coat at all, lacquers and waxes can alter the color. In that case a light spray of a matte fix by Grumbracher or Windsor Newton will do.

Hot Patinas:
Wax may be applied immediately after finishing the patina, while the metal is still hot. Apply the wax with a brush. Allow the wax to cool, dry, and harden for 4 hours or more. Polish with a terry cloth rag and repeat with a second coat of the wax, this time the surface will be cool. After several hours, buff again. Solvent lacquer may be applied over a layer of wax. The drying time of the lacquer is greatly increased.
As with the cold patinas you may not want to apply wax immediately to some (cupric-green/blue) patinas as it may change the look. Let the patina cool then spray on a lacquer, let this dry six hours then apply the wax a usual.

Maintenance:
Lightly clean the surface every six months or as needed with a non-ionic soap (Amway makes one). Dry completely and reapply a new layer of wax with a brush. When dry, buff as before. If the wax is maintained regularly there is a good chance the Clear Sealer will never be damaged

1. Rennaissance Wax

This particular wax was chosen because it gives a thin, hard surface protection. It does not allow dust to stick and gum the finish, nor does it turn yellow over time, or break down quickly in the sun. The wax may be tinted with Sculpt Nouveau's Solvent Dyes to add a slight color to your finish.

2. Tree Wax Professional Clear

This seems to be a great wax also. It is easy to find and less expensive. Buy the type with carnauba.

3. New Wax From Sculpt Nouveau

Sculpt Nouveau's wax is made with binders, rust, and UV inhibitors. It is ideal for Iron, Steel, and Aluminum. We also make a version for Bronze, Brass, and Copper. We have taken everything good we know of for finishing metal and added to our wax. The wax creates a very beautiful, hard protective coating once dry. The wax will be soft in the container. Apply to a hot or cold surface. Try not to let the wax fill up in the recessed areas as it may turn white. Use a toothbrush or soft brush to remove the excess wax from these areas. If you are waxing on a cold surface, buff the wax within a few minutes. If you are apply the wax to a hot surface, let the surface cool down, then buff. Do not wait very long to buff in any circumstance as the wax soon dries too hard to buff.

We make the wax already tinted also. Or, you may tint the wax yourself with the solvent dyes.

This wax is great over another clear protective coating or used alone. It also works well over a rusted surface or patina although for outdoor metal we recommend applying a marine varnish over the rust, and then apply the wax.

The following is a brief description of hot and cold patina processes and our patinas. For more in depth instruction covering all facets of patinas, please refer to our books, videos, and upcoming workshops.

Cold Patina Process

"Cold Patina" is a term used for applying patinas without heating the metal. The best room or air temperature for these patinas is between 65° and 75° F. Cold patinas, once applied to the metal, require hours or days to react. Often they involve cycles of applications involving layers of patina. The three basic techniques of applying the patina are to use a brush, sponge, or spray bottle. There are also some very interesting ancient techniques where the metal object is buried in substances soaked with the patina or wrapped in cloth soaked with a patina. A characteristic of most cold patinas is that they are opaque.

Hot Patina Process

"Hot Patina' is a term used when describing the application of a patina onto hot metal. The
temperature of the metal during this technique should be between 150° to 250° F. An easy test for the correct temperature is to sprinkle a few drops of distilled water from a spray bottle onto the hot metal surface. If the water sizzles it is the correct temperature. If the water streams off the metal is too cold, if the water balls-up it is too hot. A characteristic of most hot patinas is that they are transparent.
There are three ways the metal may be heated: 1. (The most common) Use a propane torch with a 5-gallon propane bottle or use a torch with a gas/air mix used with an air compressor. 2. Use a hair dryer or a paint peeler. 3. Place the object in the sun. Apply the patina with a brush, spray bottle, or sponge.

Potassium Dichromate - stop out for patinas

This is an old formula for stopping the patina reaction. This may help when working with ferrous metals.

Potassium Dichromate is a very toxic chemical, be careful, and wear gloves, mask, and work in a well-ventilated area.

Add ¼ tsp to 16 Oz distilled water. This mixture should be a faint orange color.
Spray over the patina (or rust)
Let Dry
Apply clear sealer

An overview of Sculpt Nouveau Patinas

Sculpt Nouveau makes products that color or "patina" metals. We also have books and videos to teach the techniques.

There are two main categories of patinas:
1. Contain acids
2. Do not contain acids = *

We put a * on the label of the products that do not contain acids.
This is important to people wishing to patina iron, steel, or aluminum, as acids will cause rust or oxidation.

The types of Patinas Sculpt Nouveau make:
1.Traditional Patinas - All contain acids
2.Universal Patina - Do not contain acids = *
3.Vista Patinas - All contain acids
4.Dye Oxide patinas - Do not contain acids = *

Each type of patina is available in a range of colors. The colors may be mixed together within the group to form a different shade. Or they may be applied one over the other. The different types may be applied over each other or mottled around in areas to make the patina more interesting.

When working directly on real metal, the most important factor in using Sculpt Nouveau's products successfully will be to have the surface of the metal clean. Sandblasting is the best. If this is not an option Industrial Metal Supply's Cleaner is what we recommend.

When using a patina from a group that does not contain acids, warming the metal is the best way to get them to stick on. Warming can be done by:
a. Putting the metal out in the sun.
b. Use a heat gun or paint peeler
c. Use a patina torch.

Sculpt Nouveau's patinas do not protect the metals from further natural changes once they have been applied. Also, most patinas will have a chalkiness, which will rub off (or rinse off.) We recommend applying a clear sealer once the patina is finished.

When layering the different patinas it would be best to have the types with acids applied first.

When applying patina to the Metal Coating - every patina will be applied cold.


Definitions of Patina groups:

1. Traditional Patinas: These are old formulas - or variations of old formulas. Many of these patina formulas are available in the books and videos; we have just pre-mixed them for you. All contain acids.

Key Notes for Traditional Patinas:
All of these patinas are for bronze, brass, or copper except for Japanese Brown.
They will cause rust on iron or steel.
They are all to be applied to clean, cold (65° - 70°) metal.
Patinas marked as (hot) may be applied hot also.
Allow some time to react 2-12 hours.
Reapply if the color is not intense enough.
The patina will be chalky - apply a clear sealer when finished.

Colors:
Light Green
Tiffany Green
Mint Green (hot)
Blue - indoor only
Powder Blue - indoor or outdoor
Mahogany
Ferric Nitrate/Ferric Chloride (Brown) (hot)
Ferric Chloride (Brown) (hot)
Cupric Nitrate (hot)

Japanese Brown (for Steel & Iron) (hot)
Golden Bronze (for Steel & Iron) (hot)

Note - For those of you who want to patina stainless steel, try the Mahogany (light Greys & Blacks) or the Golden Bronze (Yellow/Gold).


2. Vista Patinas: The Vista Patinas contain acids as well as oxides. This patina was designed to give a consistent patina color. So many times with an acid patina the color will vary depending on the weather or other variables. The consistent color of the oxide is pulled into the acid reaction and a predictable patina is formed.

When used on Bronze, Brass, and Copper the Vista Patina is a two part, marbleized effect of a green patina plus the Vista Color will form. When used on Iron or Steel the green acid base will cause beautiful rust plus the Vista Color.

Key Notes for Vista Patinas:
These are cold patinas only with the exception of Vista Green (hot).
They can be used on all metals except for aluminum.
They are all applied to clean, cold (65° - 70°) metal.
As with all cold acid patinas, try to apply out of direct sunlight and in moderate temperatures.
If the reaction does not take place, it may be because the patina dried too fast.
Allow some time to react 2-12 hours.
Reapply if the color is not intense enough.
The patina will be chalky - apply a clear sealer when finished.

Colors:
Vista Blue
Vista Green (hot)
Vista Yellow
Vista Rust
Vista Red
Vista Burgundy
Vista Brown
Vista Black


3. Universal Patinas: The Universal patinas do not contain acids; they are UV safe, indoor, or outdoor oxides. These patinas may be applied hot or cold to any metal including Iron, Steel, and Aluminum - without causing rust. Sculpt Nouveau's Universal Patinas come in a wide range of colors. Theses patinas bind onto the metal surface, they do not react. The color of these patinas will remain the same; they will not change as with an acid patina. The metal surface needs to be clean before application.

Key notes for Universal Patinas:
These patinas may be applied either hot or cold (Best results occur when the metal is heated some).
Patinas marked with as (hot) may be applied hot also.
These patinas may be used successfully on all metals.
Reapply if the color is not intense enough.
The patina will be chalky - apply a clear sealer when finished.

Colors:
* Green (hot)
* Yellow (hot)
* Rust (hot)
* Red (hot)
* Burgundy (hot)
* Brown (hot)
* Black (hot)
* White (hot)


4. Dye Oxide Patinas: The Dye Oxide Patinas do not contain acids; they are UV safe indoor, or outdoor oxide. They may be applied hot or cold to any metal including Iron, Steel, and Aluminum - without causing rust. They are best applied hot; they do not react with the metal. The color of these patinas will remain the same; they will not change as with an acid patina. The metal surface needs to be clean before application. The Dye Oxide Patinas are more transparent than the Universal Patinas.

Key notes for Dye Oxide Patinas:
These patinas may be applied either hot or cold (Best results occur when the metal is heated some).
Patinas marked with a (hot) may be applied hot also.
These patinas may be used successfully on all metals.
Reapply if the color is not intense enough.
The patina will be chalky - apply a clear sealer when finished.

Colors:
* Violet (hot)
* Blue (hot)
* Blue/Green (hot)
* Green (hot)
* Green/Blue (hot)
* Pea Green (hot)
* Yellow (hot)
* Orange (hot)
* Red (hot)
* Brown (hot)
* Black (hot)
* White (hot)


Although we try to keep the most updated prices on our website, all prices are subject to change.
1-800-9-SCULPT